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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.